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  #1  
Old August 7th, 2009, 12:54 PM
Positive Climb Positive Climb is offline
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Dog Will NOT Stop Pulling

We have a 3 year old yellow lab.

We have tried the halti/halter but she will NOT stop pulling on the leash!

What can I try?

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old August 7th, 2009, 01:11 PM
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sugarcatmom sugarcatmom is offline
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You could work on her training. There is a good article here on this very topic: http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/pulling-leash

Also, not sure where you're located, but there's something called a Canny Collar that lots of people have success with. In Canada it's called the Champ Walk Master, and I believe you can only get it through your vet.
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Old August 7th, 2009, 01:41 PM
BenMax BenMax is offline
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Try this very simple exercise. I think Bailey can vouche for this method.

When the dog pulls, stand still. Let him continue until he understands that you are not moving. Eventually, you will notice he will stop and turn towards you. Do not make eye contact and continue to just hold the leash. He will eventually come towards you. Once he is calm, give him the sit command and hold. When this is done, take a step forward. I guarantee you he will pull again. Repeat the same exercise. It takes days before they get it. Anyways - just give it a shot.
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Old August 7th, 2009, 02:28 PM
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This is a wonderful excercise that BenMax told you, as long as you remember NOT to talk to your dog (unless giving him a single command) and NOT to make eye contact. It's key in motivating your dog to look to you for direction. Remember too that when your dog pulls forward, our natural reaction is to pull back on the leash - attempting to pull them back to our side, which begins to look a bit like a sawing motion. The problem with this is that a dog naturally wants to lunge or strain against pressure the leash is putting on him, just like YOU want to pull back when he's pulling you. Stopping your forward motion as BenMax stated will really get the dog to realize that you don't continue until he stops pulling.

Is there a reputable trainer near you? Sometimes it's great just to get one or two lessons to start you on a road to success.
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Old August 7th, 2009, 09:03 PM
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MyBirdIsEvil MyBirdIsEvil is offline
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It also helps to exercise your dog and exercise him consistently every single day before you take him for walks.
Very high energy dogs have trouble focusing when they're stir crazy and wound up. Most dogs get wound up when they're ready for a walk because it's their exercise time which means time to pull and strain trying to get you to keep up with them. If you exercise beforehand it can make the walk more like a leisurly "cool down" time.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 12:01 AM
Etown_Chick Etown_Chick is offline
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I totally agree with BenMax - that's the only thing that works on Scruffy. He actually walks on a (mostly) slack leash now. I'd have thought that was impossible last summer.
I also make sure he gets a good run in before any leash walk around the 'hood, to wear off some of his 'stupid'. Makes life easier for both of us.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 12:15 AM
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Shaykeija Shaykeija is offline
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hmmm roller blades and let her pull you? Just joking...She just need a little more training. Perhaps get a trainor to help you. good luck
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Old August 10th, 2009, 11:51 PM
Sooks Sooks is offline
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halters are actually worse for the dog. they increase the pulling. try a choke chain even if it is not the best choice. also, dont directly pull your dog from behind, pull him from the side. when u pull from behind it encourages him to pull more.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 12:09 AM
pattymac pattymac is offline
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Try this, take the leash in your left hand about 2 feet from the dog's collar then loop the rest of the leash around his chest, hold the end of the leash in your right hand, keep your left hand on the leash loose and control the leash with your right hand. Lots of praise and when he starts to pull, give a little tug on the leash with your right hand. Some dogs figure out they can back away from the loop. If that's the case, then bring the leash under his tummy and between his front legs, you can also slip it under his collar so it stay where it belongs. I can guarantee this will work! Once you get the hang of this then you can just use your left hand and hold the leash that way.

Last edited by pattymac; August 11th, 2009 at 12:10 AM. Reason: added more info
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Old August 11th, 2009, 11:08 AM
kandy kandy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pattymac View Post
Try this, take the leash in your left hand about 2 feet from the dog's collar then loop the rest of the leash around his chest, hold the end of the leash in your right hand, keep your left hand on the leash loose and control the leash with your right hand. Lots of praise and when he starts to pull, give a little tug on the leash with your right hand. Some dogs figure out they can back away from the loop. If that's the case, then bring the leash under his tummy and between his front legs, you can also slip it under his collar so it stay where it belongs. I can guarantee this will work! Once you get the hang of this then you can just use your left hand and hold the leash that way.
I also loop the leash across the chest of my collie mix. It used to be that he'd wear me out and make my arm sore from fighting him on walks - now he walks like a dream - he does not like the sensation of restriction across his chest so he quits pulling the second the leash tightens.

I would not recommend using a choke chain on a dog that pulls - you could end up damaging his windpipe if you use it incorrectly or put it on wrong.
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  #11  
Old August 11th, 2009, 09:08 PM
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MyBirdIsEvil MyBirdIsEvil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sooks View Post
halters are actually worse for the dog. they increase the pulling. try a choke chain even if it is not the best choice. also, dont directly pull your dog from behind, pull him from the side. when u pull from behind it encourages him to pull more.
I totally disagree with that.

Choke chains are absolutely, 100%, NOT anti-pulling devices. People generally only have luck using them in that manner if the dog isn't a major puller. They're meant for corrections in training. That is the ONLY thing they should be used for. Large dogs that are major pullers will actually choke themselves to the point of coughing and cutting off air. Choke chains can cause injuries when not used properly.

Halters generally don't increase pulling if they're fitted and used correctly. There is also more than one type of halter. Haltis work better than Gentle Leaders IME but it depends on the dog. The dog also must be transitioned into a halter or else they can make pulling and behavior worse because the dog is trying to get out of the halter.
Halters can also cause neck injuries when not used properly btw. They shouldn't be used on dogs that are lungers and you should never yank on the leash when using a halter. They can also cut into the skin when not fitted properly.

-----
I agree with the people about looping the leash around the chest. Leashes usually work just fine in a pinch as a temporary no-pull harness.

Either way, training and patience are key. Devices usually just work as a temporary aid and if you're not consistent with the actual leash training their effectiveness will usually wane in time.

Last edited by MyBirdIsEvil; August 11th, 2009 at 09:12 PM.
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  #12  
Old August 11th, 2009, 10:52 PM
pattymac pattymac is offline
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I've also found with Bayley that if I use her long line on her, she's better. Mind you I've taught her the command 'here' that way she knows to come back to me. Also 'wait' handy if I've let her go out and she's getting close to a road or people. Takes a bit of practice with the long line so you both don't get tangled up but I like to use it. With the people thing, sometimes she doesn't like kids running up to her and alot of people just don't know how to approach a dog, so I keep her close in those situations.
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