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Old April 18th, 2006, 05:03 PM
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Esaunders Esaunders is offline
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Techniques for correcting humping

Looking for some suggestions on techniques for correction of humping behaviour with other dogs in a 5 month old male setter. So far this has only emerged in the leash free in the last 2 days, but I'd like to nip it in the bud. There are certainly more polite ways that he can choose to 'assert' himself in the dog social order. I know some of the other owners don't mind, but it can lead to fights. I'd like to avoid that if I can.

I'm considering keeping him on a long line (30 ft) so that I have a means to correct when he is out of reach while allowing hi to get far enough to have behaviour to correct.

He is not neutered yet and is not due to be neutered for a while since his 'bits' are not fully descended.

Thoughts?
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Old April 18th, 2006, 05:38 PM
Lucky Rescue Lucky Rescue is offline
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You're right, this could lead to your puppy being injured if the dog being humped objects to it. Most adults won't hurt a puppy, but there are always exceptions.

You can't correct anything if your dog is off leash and out of reach. The idea of keeping him on a line is a good one.
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Old April 18th, 2006, 05:52 PM
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PetFriendly PetFriendly is offline
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Charley's cue for that is 'Get off, you're being rude' and 9 times out of 10 he will. I kept him on leash and would actually have to pull him off the other dog or when we were in the house would pull the teddy bear out from under him. He very rarely does it now (one year, 3 months old, neutered), especially with dogs he doesn't know.
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Old April 18th, 2006, 08:47 PM
Prin Prin is offline
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Frankly, I use the neck fur... It might seem barbaric, but to me, when a dog is being dominant over another, you have to show the dog that you decide what dominance is allowed. Around other dogs, you have to be much more assertive to position yourself at the top of the heirarchy and have control. JMO
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Old April 18th, 2006, 09:04 PM
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Esaunders Esaunders is offline
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Not barbaric to me at all. If in reach, that would be a preferable method. Dogs deal with each other through BOTH positive and negative stimulus, there's no reason to me why effective training cannot include both to a reasonable degree.

But what about when out of reach? Or is part of the answer to not let him out of arm's length reach? He isn't trying this when close to me on a normal 6' leash. (yet anyway) When on lead he knows who is in 'lead position', and it isn't him. :queen:
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Old April 18th, 2006, 09:10 PM
Prin Prin is offline
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You could still leave the lead on... But some dogs don't do well on a lead in a park with other dogs, so be careful with that. Some dogs become more aggressive and anxious on a lead, no matter the length, when the others are free to run around them completely unrestricted. I'd just try to stay close. Usually dogs will prefer to hump certain dogs over others, so when you notice the pattern, you can be more alert when the hump risk is higher.
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Old April 18th, 2006, 09:11 PM
Prin Prin is offline
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Oh and also, a lot of the time there will be body language to let you know it's coming- like putting his head over the back or head of the other, or staying toward the back end of a doggy... That kind of thing.
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Old April 19th, 2006, 04:38 PM
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PetFriendly PetFriendly is offline
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Once the dog learns the cue, it'll respond to it from a distance, that's what I meant by 9 times out of 10). Use what ever word you use for keeping the dog from jumping up on people (in our case OFF) and think up a cue for behaviour that isn't acceptable (in our case YOU'RE BEING RUDE which is also used when he stares at someone who's eating or does too much bum sniffing, etc).
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