#1
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Whats the "best" food then?
Hi, After finally stumbling onto this sub forum after how many months now lol.
I have seen so far that neither Purina, Science Diet, or Vet food is considered " GOOD " food?? So what is then? I have always fed Pedigree ( and im sure this falls into the BAD food list) and had no problems with it. My dogs all have had a healthy weight and good digestive tracks and shiny healthy coats. Now that said, I am sure it has the dreaded by-products and corn and numerous other things that i have never heard of before. Other than feeding raw diet, what dry food can give you the best possible nutrition for your dog? The food topic is awfully confusing
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Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyways. ~John Wayne |
#2
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anything with human-grade ingredients, identified meat meal in the first ingredients before the source of fat (chicken meal, turkey meal, etc and not "meat meal" which is cheap generic, could be cats n'dogs), the more meats the better, no by-products, no corn, no soy, no wheat, no artificial colors, flavors, preservaties, sugar, you want high-quality grains (whole brown rice, not brewer's rice...)... basically if you cannot understand the what the ingredients mean (ex: corn gluten meal... WHAT is that?) and if the food sounds like the garbage bin of a grain processing factory - peanut hulls, wheat middlings, rice fragments, etc - run away screaming!
example of a high-quality kibble: Turkey Chicken Chicken Meal Ground Barley Ground Brown Rice Potatoes Natural Flavors Ground White Rice Chicken Fat Herring Apples Carrots Cottage Cheese Sunflower Oil Alfalfa Sprouts Egg Garlic example of a low-quality kibble: Chicken by-product meal corn brewers rice feeding oat meal animal fat (BHA used as a preservative) animal digest bone phosphate potassium chloride condensed grain fermentation solubles salt dried egg product ...hope this helped
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"Let Thy Food Be Thy Medicine" Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints. :love: ~Akitas Are Love~ :love: |
#3
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The best food is the one that your pet does best on. Some dogs do not do well on the premium foods - my own dog had terrible diarrhea with Eagle pack, and Solid Gold gave her IMMENSE feces.
Look for a dry kibble with a named protein source (ie Lamb or chicken, NOT "meat") as the first ingredient. After that, it gets complicated... many kibble companies will split ingredients, so that a food that is mostly grain still looks good: Ie. Lamb, rice flour, brewers rice, rice bran - chances are good all those rice ingredients together will outweigh the lamb. So look for more than one meat ingredient. Avoid artificial colours and flavours - your dog doesn't need them Avoid preservatives like ethoxyquin, BHA and BHT Here is a good website where you can compare ingredient lists: http://www.doberdogs.com/menu.html |
#4
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while I don't agree that some dogs don't do well on all premium foods... I will agree that it does take some trial and error to find a premium food that your dog will like and do well on. There is so much info out there... search out the whole dog journal; they have a 'best foods' list... but there really isn't one best food, just a best food for your own dog. That said, you can do a WHOLE lot better than what you are feeding for not much more $... One benefit is the amount that you feed decreases due to the improved nutrition. For example, my 80 lb guy would eat something like 5-7 cups of low grade food, but eats about 3 1/2 cups of Canidae.
Good luck and have fun researching!! |
#5
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As for good food- look for ingredients that aren't a by-product of some human process. Things like "brewer's rice/yeast" or "by-products" or unnamed meats, bones or fats are to be avoided. So things like "animal fat", "animal digest", "meat meal", "bone meal", etc are to be avoided. Also, things like beet pulp are not preferable. Beet pulp hardens the stool by releasing a toxin into the colon which temporarily paralyses it, holding the food in there, firming up the stool. Not a good thing. If your dog is sick, or is not digesting properly, you will have a harder time realizing and will notice later, because the food is practically digesting itself and running your dog's body. Wheat, soy and corn are not ideal either. They are common causes of allergies in pets and are not very digestible. Soy has also been linked with bloat, as it can create more gas than a dog can handle. Oatmeal, millet and brown rice are better, IMO. Along with all that, there are preservatives and supplements that should be avoided. Like BHT (preservative), and vitamin K supplements. The use of these is banned in humans. Always try to get a specific meat meal as your #1 ingredient. Like turkey meal, salmon meal, etc. Meal means dehydrated. If it's not meal, it'll get dehydrated during cooking and lose most of its weight, bumping it down the ingredient list to just before the fat source (so they say). For the fat, fish oil or flaxseed oil is best, but canola and sunflower are ok too, and lastly chicken/turkey/lamb fat (animal fats have more saturated fats in them, and we don't like saturated fats too much). Hmmm.... Am I forgetting something? Yes... The ingredients before the fat source make up the bulk of the food. They say the more different ingredients there are, the less of each there are... But I don't know if the number really reflects the proportion... I think that's it. That's pretty well all I know, dumped on one post. (watch me lose it now... the post I mean. ) |
#6
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Marie-Eve and Buster (5 year old-ish rescued Boxer) Deep thought, by Jack Handey : "I think my new thing will be to try to be a real happy guy. I'll just walk around being real happy until some jerk says something stupid to me." |
#7
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The best way to introduce a dog to a new food is to fast them for 24 hours first and then you can switch them 100%
There is no one food out there that every single dog will do good on |
#8
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best food
[QUOTE=OntarioGreys]The best way to introduce a dog to a new food is to fast them for 24 hours first and then you can switch them 100%
I have never heard of doing a drastic switch this way. I don't see the necessity of not feeding my dog for 24 hours. Doing it this way is gentler and works. The first 3 days 75% old 25% new, the next 3 days 50-50 and finally for another 3 days 75%new, 25% old. On day 10 give new food only. My dogs too have huge poops for the first few months on Solid Gold. They are now small and easy to pick up. Did you give your dog enough time on the food? It can take 4 months to totally get the old food out of their system. |
#9
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But really, as long as it's solid, I don't care if she poops a mountain. It's well worth the trade off in terms of the skin and fur issues the premium foods have resolved for us.
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I used to have a Multiple Personality Disorder, but the doctor says we are fine now. Harley - 8 year old Beagle x Dobie Jet - 10 month old Labrador Retriever |
#10
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can't remember how long I tried the Solid Gold for, but I know we finished the bag - and Kaylie went through a detox when I switched her to Raw, so I know how that went, and this was not the same thing at all. When the same amount comes out as went in, I know she's not digesting the food properly - and with a dog with skin and stomach issues, I really can't wait four months for her system to adjust. So we went back to Nutro
Both my dogs get Nutro Sensitive Stomach (Chicken and Oatmeal) formula, and are doing just fine. |
#11
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I'm not sure about the whole exact amout coming out thing... I mean, Boo threw up a whole cookie a week after he was given it... They can store some goods in there. Plus, on commercial foods with all the stool hardeners, they might be backed up, but you don't notice because there's still a stool every day nonetheless... All I know is the stools were enormous and now they're tiny- the way they should be on holistic food.
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#12
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#13
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Yep. WHOLE. It was red and some a** gave it to him at the park when I wasn't looking. I was wondering why it didn't make him sick (you know- the best cookies are never RED!!) and then a week later- literally- violà!
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#14
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RED....YUCK No wonder poor Boo barfed it....Smart Boy |
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