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4 months old puppy help please!

rameets
October 9th, 2007, 05:34 PM
Hello,
I have a boston terrier puppy, male, named stewie. He is now 4 months.

I'm having some problems with him and I'd like all of your help to figure out how I can resolve this.

He's a very smart dog, he's learnt to sit on command, and when we're traveling in the car, everytime I say down, he lies down. 5 out of the 7 days he's with me and comes to work with me. He's usually well behaved, he gets very excited, bites a lot and sometimes misses and pees inside or poops.

The biggest problem is at home when I'm not there to watch his every step. He pees inside a lot, especially even when I take him out, he'll pee but then once we're inside in the next 5 minutes he pees again. What could I do to prevent him from peeing and pooing inside so much? He doesn't let me know when he needs to go out. He still doesn't control it too much he just goes wherever he has to. And I've yelled at him, caught him in the act but he still doesn't seem to get it.

Also he's recently starting to bark and whine a lot when I leave him on his own in my room (which is where he sleeps in his cage).

Does he not like peeing and pooing outside because it's cold (I'm in Montreal) and he does seem to get cold easy, shakes outside.

Thanks any help would be great!

kiara
October 9th, 2007, 06:48 PM
I saw a Boston terrier at a pet shop today, they are soooo cute! and expensive. I think you should get a doggie trainer, since he is still young. I am forever seeing people with their unruly dogs, that jump on people and pull on their leash. I am thinking to myself "why not spend a few $ on dog training"? My friends' dogs are the same. Good luck.

Frenchy
October 9th, 2007, 07:52 PM
And I've yelled at him, caught him in the act but he still doesn't seem to get it.



Yelling at him is a no no , this is not helping , it's probably making it worse. When you do caught him in the act , you just say no (firm but no yelling) and take him outside. He might be done once outside. :shrug: When outside with him , stay with him (walk with him , whatever) and when he does it , praise praise praise him. No joke , your neighbors will probably think you're crazy , but it does work. If you want to , with the praising , you can use treats too. But I would start with only praising. That is positive reinforcement. When they do something bad , if you are not right there , it's too late to tell him not to do it , way better to praise him when he does good. Dogs just want to please their families. So patience and please , no yelling !

sugarcatmom
October 9th, 2007, 08:45 PM
Also he's recently starting to bark and whine a lot when I leave him on his own in my room (which is where he sleeps in his cage).

Do you give him any chew toys to occupy his time while he's confined? If not, I highly suggest getting a Kong or Squirrel Dude: http://www.sitstay.com/store/toys/toysa.shtml and stuffing it with something tasty (peanut butter, treats, even kibble) so that being in his crate is fun for him.

For more info on housetraining, read this link: http://www.dogstardaily.com/article/housetraining

rameets
October 10th, 2007, 10:57 AM
thanks for the posts everyone, yes training is going to start next month, I have to take him, he has a chew toy as well but doesn't seem to pay much attention to it, he wants to destroy things he's not allowed to and pees and poops quite often around the house. Apparently boston terriers are naturally harder to house break, I don't know if that's true.

Everytime I take him outside, lately, he freezes his butt off! lol. I'm thinking of training him to go in a litter box since winters get crazy cold here. Any input?

Thanks again!

Frenchy
October 10th, 2007, 11:21 AM
There's a member here with a Boston puppy , she makes the pup wear those cute little coats .... maybe you could buy him one ? A manly one of course ! :D

Dean55
October 10th, 2007, 04:10 PM
I would suggest possibly crate training your pup.:lightbulb:

cheers

sugarcatmom
October 10th, 2007, 09:12 PM
he has a chew toy as well but doesn't seem to pay much attention to it, he wants to destroy things he's not allowed to and pees and poops quite often around the house.

You have to make the chew toy(s) more interesting for him then. That, combined with more stringent crating until he can be trusted on his own, will go a long way towards helping you with both problems.

Prevent Destructive Chewing

When leaving home, confine your puppydog to a long-term confinement area, such as a single room—your puppydog’s playroom—with a comfortable bed, a bowl of water, a doggy toilet (if not yet housetrained), and nothing to chew but half a dozen freshly-stuffed chewtoys. Housetrained adult dogs may be confined (with their chewtoys) to a dog crate. When you return, instruct your dog to fetch his chewtoys so you can extricate the freeze-dried liver pieces and give them to your dog. Your dog will happily settle down and entertain himself with his chewtoys as soon as you leave in the morning, and he will be more inclined to search for chewtoys when he wakes up in anticipation of your afternoon return. This is important since most chewing activity occurs right after you leave home and right before you return.

When you are home, confine your puppy to her doggy den (crate) with nothing but a freshly-stuffed chewtoy for entertainment. Every hour on the hour (or at longer intervals with housetrained adult dogs), take your puppydog to her doggy toilet (see Housetraining blueprint), and if she goes, praise her and play some chewtoy games with her before putting her back in her crate with a freshly stuffed chewtoy.

The purpose of confinement is to prevent your dog from chewing inappropriate items around the house and to maximize the likelihood your dog will develop a chewtoy habit.


Redirect Chewing to Chewtoys

The confinement schedule described above optimizes self-training; your dog will train herself to chew chewtoys. In fact your dog will soon become a chewtoyaholic. With a good chewtoy habit, your puppy will no longer want to destroy carpets, curtains, couches, clothes, chair legs, computer disks, children's toys, or electrical cords. Your dog will be less likely to develop into a recreational barker. And also, your dog will happily settle down calmly and quietly and will no longer be bored or anxious when left alone.

You must also actively train your dog to want to chew chewtoys. Offer praise and maybe a freeze-dried liver treat every time you notice your dog chewing chewtoys. Do not take chewtoy chewing for granted. Let your dog know that you strongly approve of her newly acquired, appropriate, and acceptable hobby. Play chewtoy games with your dog, such as fetch, search, and tug-of-war.

Chewtoys should be indestructible and nonconsumable. Consumption of non-food items is decidedly dangerous for your dog's health. Also, destruction of chewtoys necessitates their regular replacement, which can be expensive. However, compared with the cost of reupholstering just one couch, $70 worth of chewtoys seems a pretty wise investment.

Kongs, Biscuit Balls, Big Kahuna footballs, and sterilized long-bones are by far the best chewtoys. They are made of natural products, are hollow, and may be stuffed with food to entice your dog to chew them exclusively. To prevent your dog from porking out, ensure that you only stuff chewtoys with part of your dog's daily diet (kibble or raw food). Firmly squish a piece of freeze-dried liver in the small hole in the Kong, fill the rest of the cavity with moistened kibble, and then put the Kongs in the freezer. Voila, Kongsicles! As the kibble thaws, some falls out easily to reinforce your dog as soon as she shows interest. Other bits of kibble come out only after your dog has worried at the Kong for several minutes, thus reinforcing your dog's chewing over time. The liver is the best part. Your dog may smell the liver, see the liver, (and maybe even talk to the liver), but she cannot get it out. And so your dog will continue to gnaw contentedly at the Kong until she falls asleep.

Until your dog is fully chewtoy-trained, do not feed her from a bowl. Instead, feed all kibble, canned food, and raw diets from chewtoys, or handfeed meals as rewards when you notice your dog is chewing a chewtoy.

More to read here: http://www.dogstardaily.com/article/destructive-chewing

rameets
October 24th, 2007, 12:19 AM
thanks for the help with the chew toys! i was taking it as being really simple! but its not lol, yeah as for the jackets, I got him a checkered sweater lol but being a puppy he tore it apart lol off himself.

okay So i need more help! this crate training, here is the status so far, of course he's a very indoor dog, so I decided to train him to use a litter box, I had it in my room (where he has his crate, food and thats where he sleeps) but once he learnt to use it more or less, everytime he'd come out, he would bring out so much litter with him , I had sand all over the floor, and of course it would smell up my room. So I moved it down into the basement, but he doesn't understand to go there by himself yet. Do you guys recommend taking him outside or sticking to the litter method?

Also at work, he goes to work with me everyday, in the office, I've placed the same type of litter box in a corner, and he's got it down pretty well now, other than of course, same problem, sand on floor and smells, but it's hard for me to take him out while I work, and he can go when he needs to.

Now last piece of information, when I leave him in his crate for an hour or so, then I take him out, I've been taking him directly outside, he gets the idea, but sometimes he won't pee or anything outside, and as soon as he comes back inside, a few minutes later he'll do it inside even though I catch him, say no and put him back outside but he's already finished inside. Now is he getting all confused because of the litter box method at work and going outside at home (he rarely uses litter at home since it's in basement so only when we play down there he may go).

Sorry this is so long, but that's the situation in clarity , please help when you all get the time :)! It's really appreciated.

Thanks

badger
October 24th, 2007, 03:26 AM
I've never understood litter training a dog unless there was no other choice. Also, I imagine it would be difficult to maintain both, too confusing for him and double the effort for you.
If he were my pup, I'd dump the litter boxes and take him outside frequently, staying out there until something happens, at which point make a huge fuss. Buy him another coat for the winter. You should be able to find one that he can't get out of :)
The work you do with him now - burning off puppy energy with lots of play, socializing him with other dogs and people, consistent toilet training, puppy classes - will pay off in the end.

rameets
October 24th, 2007, 09:27 AM
thanks for the advice, yeah I need him to be a good dog :) the litter is a nasty concept, I figured it would be better for him especially because Montreal winters, i don't know if he'll even look out the window lol, but yeah I'd also advise ppl that having litter box for a dog is difficult and nasty lol.

So basically, I have to crate him for an hour or so, take him directly outside? wait till something happens? But if he has not ate before hand, then I guess if nothing happens for 5-10 min, nothing will be happening at all? thanks, I'm a little lost on the crate thing too, because I feel bad crating him, I figured he'd want to stay out and play but I notice he's starting to get very spoiled.