December 10th, 2006, 04:18 PM
I recently bought Riley a Sensation/Sensible harness on the recommendation of our dog class instructor. He started pulling like a freight engine about a month ago. I tried the Halti which he hated. Hubby didn't put it on tight enough one time and from then on he was obsessed with getting it off all the time. My instructor also prefers this harness over the Halti for growing dogs as the Halti can pull their heads around quite severely.
Anyway, I tried this and it has made a huge difference. I liked this particular design because it allows the harness to also be clipped to the collar which can be helpful in keeping the leash from being tangled.
From the supplier:The SENSE-ationô is made to be comfortable. The straps are not to cause rubbing, pinching or squeezing. The chest strap is non-constricting and made to flex as you pull your leash. This allows for full range of motion and prevents hobbling. As you move your leash, your dog feels gentle pressure (sensations) behind his front legs and shoulders. This encourages your dog to move with you, without pulling on the leash! The chest strap is also made for moving the leash ring up to meet the ring of a collar. This provides utility for clipping a leash to both the harness and a collar.
December 11th, 2006, 11:15 AM
We are not big fans of devices - because we believe they control, but don't teach. Having said that, the one device we have encouraged some clients to use is the EZ walk Harness.
We have only recommended them to people who physically can't work their dogs. We currently have a client who is in her late 60's with a severly injured back (perminent condidtion), she just adopted 2 adolescent Mals!!!! :shrug: Okay we aren't talking common sense here, but she was determined. These dogs had not been taught a thing in their 18 months and were so severly abused, their previous person is in prison for what he did to them.
We made huge strides in their training but she just couldn't handle the walking - its hard enough for her to walk by herself - let alone with 2-18 mo Mals. So we relented and slipped the EZ Walk on and they dogs were under control and walkable immediately. I do warn her that they are not learning how to walk with manners they are simply responding to the harness.
Similar to the Sensation but different enough. It applies pressure on the front of the dog - not behind the legs. Good to know the sensation is working for you.
December 11th, 2006, 11:41 AM
We are not big fans of devices - because we believe they control, but don't teach. .
what is a good way to teach not to pull? My 5 month old golden pulls (she has a buckle collar and a 6ft leash) BUT she doesn't pull all the time - some walks will be great but then later that day she will be a pulling machine. My husband doesn't want to use anything but the leash but there are days that I come back from walking her and my arm aches and she's not full grown yet.
December 11th, 2006, 02:02 PM
Every step she takes pulling you in a direction she is rewarded for pulling. So letís not practice bad manners, letís practice good ones.
When she is in those moods don't plan on taking a walk. Plan on teaching her manners. 30 minutes spent walking around the block would be much better spent teaching her how to walk properly by your side on a loose leash. People think they need to walk the dog around the block 16 times to tire them out - that is the personís agenda. Instead - tire her mind out.
Start with a short but loose leash. All you really need is about 18" of leash. She is not getting more exercise walking 5 feet in front of you then right beside you on the same walk.
The rule is there is a 'sweet spot' right next to your foot about the size of a basketball. Her front feet need to be in that spot when walking. Dogs are adventurers and people take really boring walks. So it is your job to keep things interesting. Change what you are doing about every 5-10 steps. Stop, turn into your dog, go left, go right, go super slowly and speed up. You are in charge of the walk so the most important thing you are going to do is - do the opposite thing your dog wants to do. If she is slow you speed up, if she goes past your toe line you turn into her and go the opposite direction. If she wants to go right you go left, if her nose is on the ground you can speed up or turn into her. But if she goes too fast past your toe line and its too late to successfully turn into her then you are going to go five steps backwards away from what it is she is heading for - taking her with you. We call it the 'yo-yo' game, but itís really five penalty yards for rushing.
If there is a dog ahead of you and she is trying to get to him and every time she rushes towards him and you go further away she will start to think and use her brain. "If I rush I get further from the other dog, but if I walk nicely I get closer" Good plan! So now she will start to walk nicely beside you as you approach the other dog. But within a few steps she will get excited again and rush, but opps, suddenly she's going backwards again. "Oh, thatís right, new rules". Each time you will get 2 steps closer before you have to go back. But eventually you should be able to walk right up to the distraction and she has good manners. This should only take 5 minutes or so if done correctly.
This is a very simplified synopsis of how to start teaching loose leash walking. Remember a loose lease walk is with the dog walking beside you - not taking you on a walk and walking in front of you.
December 11th, 2006, 02:40 PM
Thanks for the tips Tenderfoot. We are actually working on leash manners but at the start of the walks (just 7 mos) he is just so wired that I find the harness useful to keep him under control. I thought if I couldn't stop the pulling then that he was figuring out he could just pull anytime. We then do the regular leash work with "heal" and "walk nice" on the way home when he is less hiper and we are definately making good progress.
December 12th, 2006, 12:46 PM
I think the key for the use of devices it to try and work away from them, many people have used prong collars and now have a walkale dog on a flat collar and a loose leash. I did not understand what all the fuss was about until I saw my wife get dragged around the garden, despite him walking well for me, we ended up with something (not sure what it's called but it was only $7) and it worked, he stopped pulling, next thing my wife has to get a 4ft leash as he keeps tripping over the 6 ft one, and now he's back to a flat collar and walks a little to far forward (about 1 ft further than we would like) but the leash is always loose and even witht he 4ft one he sometimes gets tangled. I don't see a problem with corrective behaviour if done WITH a professional (how you find a professional is a much harder task) and as long as they work with you in working through the problem. Also using tenderfoots echo's pleasure walks are done ONLY when you can both walk together, untill then it's not pleasure. Find ways of making the expierience mutual rather than one where puppy gets pleasure at the expense of your arm. We spent a lot of time walking backwards and even now we have to stop once in a while, another thing that really kicked the whole thing up a notch was the 'watch me' as this get the attention while keeping them close (however our puppy is so intent on watching from the front, thats why he's always a little far forward trying to show us he's watching), now you are where you want to be you will find you will be training to work away from the aids you need at present. Also how do you leave the house, if he's charging through the door then you are starting off on the wrong foot, we also spent a long time watching a door open and close in the sit position, closing it as soon as he got near, and later as soon as he even moved (obviously not if he needed to pee!) but between pee breaks, now he leaves the house much calmer and I think that helps shape what the rest of the walk is like. Just hang in and it WILL start to come together. You are already doing the responsable thing by correcting the behaviour (unlike many of the dogs we pass on our daily walks) I see so many dogs start to pull, an arm goes up and the dog cowers, you just know how they were taught, if I put my arm up Riley drops to the 'down' position and looks at me in disgust as he realises his chest is getting wet.
December 13th, 2006, 09:49 AM
Hmmmmm, I always thought that a Harness was the exact device that would encourage a pull. Is there something in the fit that makes this harness uncomfortable to encourage pulling. IŤve seen people use them but it is oftern on a dog that will pull regardless.....YES, please use the device as an aid working towards proper training...
I have used a prong collar in the past with a Pitbull Cross who would strangle itself durring a walk. Within a short time I could walk her beautifully IF the prong was on (I attatched the lead to his flat collar.... the prong was only there as a reminder to her)..... if I tried to leave the prong off she woud pull like the dickens... Never figured out what was going on in that head!! lol. But, there was lots of neglect there, so, who knows.
December 15th, 2006, 03:08 AM
i have that same harness.and jag is a puller or he will take off in a gallop.and he stops just before the lead tightens.and he likes the harness.
December 15th, 2006, 01:56 PM
Cider learned to walk sideways still pulling on the easywalk harness. Never used a GL properly cause she was in correction mode all the time, and I didn't realize that wasn't how it worked.
Broke down and had to just teach on a flat collar not to pull, but apparently she has no manners for any one else in the family if they take her out once in a while.