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Anti-Pull Harness

September 7th, 2005, 08:05 PM
I am not sure if this should go here or under training but here goes:

I bough an anti-pull harness tonight for Spencer and tried it out. It was AMAZING. He actually couldn't seem to pull and he didn't seem to mind having it on at all.

Has anyone had any experience with these? I want to make sure that I am not going to hurt him in the long run by using this.

Here is a picture of what it looks like:

September 8th, 2005, 12:10 PM
Wow - Spencer not pulling!? Just in time for the walkathon!

I've never used one but I would think it must be better for him then just wearing a collar...hopefully someone who knows about these will respond soon!

Did you try Spencer in a regular dog harness?


September 8th, 2005, 01:08 PM
I am going to sing my old song....ready?
Is the harness teaching him not pull or is he not pulling because of the harness? In other words will he still not pull if you don't have your harness? Please just be sure that you are actually getting his brain to make choices about his behavior and not relying on a device.
I really need to find a better tune. :D

September 8th, 2005, 01:48 PM
I have been working on the pulling issue since day 1 of our obedience training (notice I said OUR). My trainer always said to me that I needed to make a decision whether I was out for a walk for myself or for Spencer. Obviously I am out there for both of us but mainly because Spencer LOVES his walks. It has just gotten to the point that he is ripping my arm off pulling so hard.

I have tried the stopping when he pulls and I can barely get out of the driveway. Itís a good theory but when you are trying to get some energy out of him, then that is not a good way as we actually donít get anywhere.

I have tried the treats so that he checks in with me but that did nothing either because the smells on the ground were way more interesting, he is a hound you know.

I was shocked at how with this harness on, he will walk right next to me. He can still sniff the ground and all those things that he likes to do but he is not killing me in the process.

I was told that this harness does not hurt them at all, just that he canít pull because of the way that it is made.

Hey, if you can tell me a training method that ACTUALLY works, then go for it but anything that I have been told does nothing.

September 8th, 2005, 01:50 PM
I use a different anti-pull harness. I use the EASY WALK by the same company that makes the Gentle Leader. I love it, however, we do try to make sure we have equal time in the harness and a regular flat collar so he learns not to pull.

September 8th, 2005, 02:28 PM
I am going to sing my old song....ready?
Is the harness teaching him not pull or is he not pulling because of the harness? In other words will he still not pull if you don't have your harness? Please just be sure that you are actually getting his brain to make choices about his behavior and not relying on a device.
I really need to find a better tune. :D

I agree with you 100% but after meeting Spencer (and his owner's) I find it hard to believe that the pulling could be stopped without the aid of a training device. Being a young Beagle seems to be the biggest obstacle in Spencer's way!

I'm sure Tenderfoot that you have had experience with hounds - you must know how difficult it is to hold their attention. Getting their attention is not the problem it's keeping it.

I guess Spencer needs to work on your "4 levels of training" - without going near the walking until he has mastered the basics...??? You once wrote something like this: She should naturally start to look to you when she is being tempted. She will look at the temptation and then glance to you and then submit by either licking her lips, sitting, laying down, readjusting her sit, taking a deep breath - all signals that she understands and is not going to challenge.

I'm sure you will suggest something that will make everything so much clearer!


September 8th, 2005, 04:22 PM
I agree with you in theory, as well, however, since I now have SEVERE arthritis in my sI joints from all the years of Rocky pulling I think that one has to set priorities and while it would be nice to have a dog who willingly behaves on leash, and Im sure its my lack of ability as a trainer that has gotten us in this stuation, I really think that choosing your battles with your dog is important too. I use this sporn harness and acredit it to saving my back! i would proobably be in traction if it werent for this harness. My dog likes it much better than anything else we have ever tried. He absolutelyhated the gentle leader, halty, and the martingale collar didn't work with him. I also think that he is becoming somewhat better trained because I still use commmands while I walk him. My dog is a "pit bull type dog so he can really pull me around physically! When I was diagnosed with the severe arthritis they asked me if I had been in a car accident, i said no, my dog just pulls on his leash! You have to use something to walk your dog, so if the sporn harness works for your dog and it really helps for mine, Im all for it. In fact Im so in love with this harness i could probably work for the company...oh but I dont!

September 8th, 2005, 06:29 PM
Ouch, Babyrock I was wincing just reading your post. Agreed, you have to do something to help you out when it physically hurts too much otherwise.

Without writing a book on the subject - our goal is to teach the dog not to pull in the first place and not to pass our toe line when we are walking. This should be done indoors first and then taken outdoors as you are successful - which can be a matter of minutes.

Absolutely some dogs are tough as nails when it comes to getting their nose off the ground and pay attention to you. People who hunt with hounds teach the younger less experienced hounds how to stay with the group and follow the leader of the pack by tying the youngster to an older more experienced dog. The pup has to follow the older dog and watch him so he doesn't get yanked about. The older dog could not care less about the desires of the pup - he just does what he wants to and the pup learns to watch him and stick to him - not go off on his own. So it is possible for a young hound to learn how to stay with the pack. Challenging as it might be.

The very first mistake people make is that when they get a new pup they take it out to potty and the leash gets tight and the pup goes about sniffing 20 places to find the best place to pee. The person allows this pulling to happen and the pup learns 'oh, I have to pull my person everywhere I want to go.' This is the beginning of the end - you have taught your dog to pull. Then people make things worse by walking everywhere with a tight leash - the dog naturally leans into it and pulls even harder. Then it simply becomes a constant tug-of-war with the dog winning as the person keeps walking in the direction the dog is pulling.

Yes, there are times when a dog is simply too strong for the person or the dog has learned to really put his shoulder into the pulling to get his way. But you see large men being pulling down the sidewalk by toy poodles - so it's really not about strength as much as it is about attitude.

We teach you how to empower your words and get your dog to respect you - so that when you say something he listens. This also applies to pulling on the leash. I attach myself to the dog and teach him not to pull against the leash in any direction. I pretend I have an imaginary boundary around me that he can move about in but cannot pull against the leash to get outside of the boundary. Through the pressure and release system I make it more comfortable to choose to stay close to me rather than pulling against me. using his brain to make the good choices out of respect for me.

Then I start moving about the house in small increments (2 steps) on a loose leash and if he takes one step infront of my toe line I turn right around and go in the opposite direction. When I stop I stomp my foot to help him cue into the change of pace. If he pays attention and stops beside or behind me then I praise him and stand still for 10 seconds. If he crosses my toe line I am off again. As long as he thinks its about where he wants to go I keep moving 2 steps in the opposite direction he is looking. As soon as he checks in with me and goes/stops where I want to go/stop then I get calm and peaceful and praise him.

People also tend to make the mistake of just having the dog 'hang around' the house doing as they please 24/7. If he's used to doing as HE pleases all of the time why should he pay attention to you when your outside? It's all about leadership - so hook him up and spend time together with you as the leader and him as the follower. The more time spent doing this the better. Everywhere you go he follows and you are playing the relationship games the whole time to remind him whose in charge. 1/2 hour a day is okay (better than nothing) but 2 hours is great and 3 hours will make the biggest difference yet. This is usually for about a week (depending on the dog) and you will start to see some great changes.

Did I say I wasn't going to write a book? Opps, I lied. :sorry:

September 8th, 2005, 07:06 PM
Thanks for the post and the empathy Tenderfoot, wish I had you around six years ago LOL! I did want to post what happened to me though because I felt absolutely fine until I didn't, by that time it was severe. All the more reason to train your dog not to pull from the beginning. :) I may be getting a booking for a large indoor space approximately one hour per day through the winter...I am doing this to cope with th Ontario ban. Pittys will not have any public off leash I am thinking of using that time in the large room for play and for Training! I will also be inviting doggy friends, with their humans as well for socialization so I could try out these suggestions indoors, with no risk to my aching backLOL